Study on the wave-driven current around the surf zone over fringing reefs

Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2016

Current dynamics across a platform reef in the Red Sea near Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, are examined using 18 months of current profile, pressure, surface wave, and wind observations. The platform reef is 700 m long, 200 m across with spatial and temporal variations in water depth over the reef ranging from 0.6 to 1.6 m. Surface waves breaking at the seaward edge of the reef cause a 2-10 cm setup of sea level that drives cross-reef currents of 5-20 cm s 21. Bottom stress is a significant component of the wave setup balance in the surf zone. Over the reef flat, where waves are not breaking, the cross-reef pressure gradient associated with wave setup is balanced by bottom stress. The quadratic drag coefficient for the depthaverage flow decreases with increasing water depth from C da 5 0.17 in 0.4 m of water to C da 5 0.03 in 1.2 m of water. The observed dependence of the drag coefficient on water depth is consistent with open-channel flow theory and a hydrodynamic roughness of z o 5 0.06 m. A simple one-dimensional model driven by incident surface waves and wind stress accurately reproduces the observed depth-averaged cross-reef currents and a portion of the weaker along-reef currents over the focus reef and two other Red Sea platform reefs. The model indicates the cross-reef current is wave forced and the along-reef current is partially wind forced.

Journal of Geophysical Research, 1995

Long-term (1 month) observations of waves and currents over a natural reef are presented which show a strong correlation between offshore rms incident wave height and cross-reef currents at subtidal frequencies. The energy spectrum of the cross-reef currents shows a significant peak at twice the semidiurnal tidal frequency, while the spectrum of sea surface elevation over the reef flat shows no corresponding peak. Furthermore, experimental results reported by Goutlay (1993) show setup over the reef occurs in the absence of a beach, and the cross-reef transport decreases with an increase in the sea surface slope across the reef fiat due to a n' increase in setup at the top of the reef face. Analytic solutions for flow forced by wave breaking over an idealized reef explain the above features of cross-reef flows in the absence of a beach. Through the surf zone on the reef face the cross-reef gradient in the radiation stress due to wave breaking is partitioned between balancing an offshore pres. sure gradient associated with setup over the reef and forcing a mean flow across the reef. Over the reef fiat, where the depth is constant, there is no forcing due to wave breaking and the flow is driven by a pressure gradient which results from the setup through the surf zone. The magnitude of the setup through the surf zone is such that the transport across the reef flat matches the transport through the surf zone which is forced by the gradient in the radiation stress. Solutions are presented for general reef geometry, defined by the reef width and slope of the seaward reef face, and incident wave forcing, defined by the depth at the breakpoint and the depth of water over the reef. As the depth over the reef goes to zero, the solutions converge to the plane beach solutions described by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1964), wave setup is maximized, and the cross-reef transport is zero. In other cases the relative magnitudes of the setup and the cross-reef transport depend on the geometry of the reef and the incident wave forcing.

DOAJ (DOAJ: Directory of Open Access Journals), 2001

An analytical approach was used to model the wave-induced set-up and flow through simple shoal geometry when water depth is a linear function of the distance. Two different approaches were applied to parameterize the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The resulting set-up height and flow velocity were determined and their dependence on the geometry of the shoal and offshore forcing was demonstrated. The extension of the solution to a more complicated bathymetry and verification against the experimental data will be given in the second part of the paper.

2007

This report describes evaluation of a two-dimensional Boussinesq-type wave model, BOUSS-2D, with data obtained from two laboratory experiments and two field studies at the islands of Guam and Hawaii, for waves propagating over fringing reefs. The model evaluation had two goals: (a) investigate differences between laboratory and field characteristics of wave transformation processes over reefs, and (b) assess overall predictive capabilities of the model for reef systems with steep slopes and extended widths in shallower water. The focus in this evaluation study was on wave breaking, bottom friction parameterization, and wave setup and runup capabilities of Boussinesq wave model.

TheScientificWorldJournal, 2014

Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over an idealized fringing reef with the 1/40 reef slope and to verify the Boussinesq model under monochromatic wave conditions. One-layer and two-layer model configurations of the Boussinesq model were used to figure out the model capability. Both models predicted well (r (2) > 0.8) the cross-shore variation of the wave heights, crests, troughs, and setups when the nonlinearity is not too high (A 0/h 0 < 0.07 in this study). However, as the wave nonlinearity and steepness increase, the one-layer model showed problems in prediction and stability due to the e...

Coastal Engineering, 2013

Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach . First, the skill of the model was evaluated in one-and two-dimensions based on its predictions of short waves (0.04-0.2 Hz), infragravity waves (0.004-0.04 Hz) and water level measurements (tidal and wave setup) obtained during a 2009 field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia. The model calibration was sensitive to friction coefficients for short waves and current/infragravity bed friction, which were assumed independent in this model study. Although the one-dimensional cross-shore model captured the gradients in the dominant hydrodynamic processes at the site, a high current/IG bed friction coefficient was required. This resulted in an overestimation and a phase lag between the observed and predicted wave setup signal. In the two-dimensional model, a lower (more realistic) current/infragravity wave friction coefficient was required to achieve optimum performance due to the presence of significant reef and lagoon mean flows in the model, which led to reduced setup across the reef. The infragravity waves were found to propagate from the surf zone across the reef in a dominantly cross-shore direction towards the shore, but with substantial frictional damping. The infragravity waves were strongly modulated also over the reef by tidal depth variations, primarily due to the variability in frictional dissipation rates when the total water depth over the reef varied. Two mean wave-driven circulation cells were observed in the study area, with cross-shore flow becoming more alongshore-dominated before exiting the system via the two channels in the reef. The results reveal that short waves dominated bottom stresses on the forereef and near the reef crest; however, inside the lagoon, infragravity waves become increasingly dominant, accounting up to 50% of the combined bottom stresses.

Journal of Coastal Research, 2013

A fringing reef is a reef that is directly attached to a shore. Since fringing reefs resemble plane beaches in some aspects, it is important to understand the similarities and discrepancies between the wave breaking over fringing reefs and the wave breaking over plane beaches. With an idealized fringing reef (a plane sloping fore reef and a submerged horizontal reef flat), a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to understand how the reef-flat submergence and the fore-reef slope may affect the characteristics of wave breaking over fringing reefs. The results show that the relative reef-flat submergence (the ratio of the reef-flat submergence to the wave height) is an important factor to characterize most wave-breaking features (the breaker type and location, the surf-zone width, and the incipient breaker depth index). The influence of the fore-reef slope appears to be insignificant in our experimental conditions. The findings in this study can be used to calibrate or improve some existing analytical or numerical models developed for cross-shore wave transformation, wave-induced setup and wave-driven flow over fringing reefs.

2009

The response of the circulation of a coral reef system in Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, to incident wave forcing was investigated using field data collected during a 10-month experiment. Results from the study revealed that wave forcing was the dominant mechanism driving the circulation over much of Kaneohe Bay. As predicted theoretically, wave setup generated near the reef crest resulting from wave breaking established a pressure gradient that drove flow over the reef and out of the two reef channels. Maximum reef setup was found to be roughly proportional to the offshore wave energy flux above a threshold root-mean-square wave height of 0.7 m (at which height setup was negligible). On the reef flat, the wave-driven currents increased approximately linearly with incident wave height; however, the magnitude of these currents was relatively weak (typically ,20 cm s 21 ) because of (i) the mild fore-reef slope of Kaneohe Bay that reduced setup resulting from a combination of frictional wave damping and its relatively wide surf zone compared to steep-faced reefs, and (ii) the presence of significant wave setup inside its coastally bounded lagoon, resulting from frictional resistance on the lagoon-channel return flows, which reduced cross-reef setup gradients by 60%-80%. In general, the dynamics of these wave-driven currents roughly matched predictions derived from quasi-onedimensional mass and momentum balances that incorporated radiation stresses, setup gradients, bottom friction, and the morphological properties of the reef-lagoon system.

A state of the art study for artificial surfing reefs indicated that to date three of these reefs have been built in the world, one reef is under construction and one is awaiting construction. From the study is concluded that almost all the research so far was conducted for reef projects built or to be built. The study gave also insight in the key design parameters, which are the peel angle, the ASR angle, the height and submergence of the reef and the breaker type. One of the gaps found in the state of the art is that there hasn't yet been conducted any research to the influence of directional irregular waves on the hydrodynamics around an artificial surfing reef. The current contribution of the authors is a theoretical study for the determination of the geometry of a reef to be used in experiments that are planned to be done in a wave basin.

Journal of Coastal Research

MENDONÇA, A., NEVES, M. G. and FORTES, C. J., 2008. Numerical Study of Hydrodynamics around an artificial surf reef for São Pedro do Estoril, Portugal, SI 56 (Proceedings of the 10th International Coastal Symposium), 1010 -1014. Lisbon, Portugal, ISSN 0749-0258.